The first time I ever had a persimmon was when I was a teenager. I took a bite of the round, orange fruit, expecting something similar to a tangy, grassy tomato flavor. Instead, I was greeted with a honey-sweet apple-like flavor and texture.
similar to mulberries, you’ll need to clean up lots of fallen fruit in the winter if you choose not to harvest it at all. Fortunately, the local wildlife will help.
The trees lend themselves perfectly to training into hedges, or they may be espaliered, if you want to add a plant to the garden that can do double-duty as a focal point and a provider of food.
And P.S.: They’re relatively disease and pest resistant, at least as far as fruit trees go.
If you live in USDA Hardiness Zones 7-10, there are dozens of cultivars available that will thrive in your area. This guide will prepare you for all the ins and outs of Asian persimmon care.
Here’s what we’ll cover:
What Is a Persimmon?
Persimmon trees are members of the Ebony family (Ebenaceae). Ebony is the type of wood often used to make black piano keys, while persimmon wood specifically is sometimes used to make golf clubs.
Cultivation and History
Asian persimmons are native to central China, where evidence of their cultivation can be traced back to 450 BC. They were later taken to Korea and Japan over 1,000 years ago, where they have been cultivated ever since. In Korea, the fruit is an essential part of memorial ceremonies to this day.
People in many parts of Asia use a traditional method of drying the fruits to create a sweet delicacy. In Japan, it is called hoshigaki. In Korea, the process is called gotgam, and in China, it is known as shìbǐng.
treat a variety of ailments. The leaves contain high levels of flavonoids, known for their antioxidant and antimicrobial properties.
Late to the game, Americans realized how fantastic Asian persimmons could be after American naval officer M. C. Perry was first introduced to the ‘Hachiya’ persimmon in Japan in the mid-1800s and brought it to the US.
Perry is often credited with “opening” trade up with the country, though that’s just a nice way of saying that he headed an expedition that forced previously isolated Japan to enter into commerce with Europe and the US.
There are many ways to start your persimmon tree, and what you choose may depend on your budget and your level of patience.
peat pots so you can simply trim out the bottom of the container before you put them in the ground.
Moisten the soil using a spray bottle and keep it moist until the seeds germinate. This takes about six to eight weeks. You can speed up germination by placing the containers on a warming mat to keep the seeds around 70°F.
To be on the safe side, plant about three times as many seeds as you need, since persimmons have a low germination rate.
The seeds don’t need light to germinate, but once they emerge, put the containers in a sunny window where they receive direct sunlight for at least six hours a day, or use a supplemental grow light.
Once the seedlings grow to be about four inches tall with at least two true leaves, and the danger of frost has passed, it’s almost time to transplant them into the ground outside. But before you put them in the ground, you’ll need to harden them off over the course of two weeks.
This involves first putting the plants in indirect sunlight for an hour outdoors and then bringing them back indoors. The next day, put them outside for two hours, and three hours on the third day. Keep adding an hour until they’re outdoors for seven full hours.
During the next week, put the plant in full sun for one hour and back into the shade for the rest of the day, then bring it inside again at night. Add an hour of sun each day until they are sitting in full sun for seven hours.
At that point, you can plant them in their permanent spot.
To propagate from a cutting, take one that is as thick as a pencil and about 10 inches long from a branch in the spring. Remove all the leaves from the bottom half of the cutting. You should have at least two leaves left on the top half.
Cut the bottom of the twig at a 45-degree angle, and dip it in powdered rooting hormone or a cloning gel like Olivia’s, which is available at Arbico Organics.
Fill a six-inch pot with fresh potting soil. Then, use a pencil or chopstick to make a hole in the soil and put the twig into it, inserting it about halfway.
You can keep cuttings outside while they root, but be sure to keep an eye on the moisture level. If the soil dries out, the cuttings might die.
Water the soil and keep it moist but not wet while the plants establish new roots. After four weeks have passed, give the twig a tug to see if it resists. If it does, it’s ready for transplanting. You might also see new leaves forming, which is another sign that they’re ready.
Don’t become discouraged if your new tree isn’t ready to plant in a month. Some will take longer to get going. If you don’t see any progress after two months, toss them and start over with new cuttings next spring.
If you decide to keep the cuttings indoors while they grow roots, put them in a place where they get indirect sunlight for at least eight hours a day. You’ll need to harden them off when you put them back outside, using the same process as you would for seeds.
If you can’t get them into the ground in the spring before the warm weather hits, meaning anything above 80°F for the high temperature, you can plant cuttings in the ground in the fall, about a month before the first frost date in your area. In the interim, you can grow them outside in their containers.
From Seedlings and Transplanting
It’s best to purchase seedlings or young trees in the early spring. They need to go in the ground after the last frost has passed but before they start developing new growth.
Dig a very deep hole for your transplant. Dig down at least twice as deep as the container the plant is sitting in. Then, mix the soil with some well-rotted compost, and some sand if you have soil with poor drainage.
Then fill the hole halfway with soil and sprinkle with water to settle the earth. Add a little more soil if it becomes compacted after watering. Then, lower the new plant into the hole and fill in around it with soil. It should sit at the same soil level as it did in its container.
Finally, give the tree a good drink of water.
If you’re planting a grafted tree, be sure to avoid covering the little bump that formed where the plant was grafted to the rootstock. This is called the graft union, and covering it with soil can cause the scion to develop roots, bypassing the rootstock. You don’t want that!
From Bare Roots
Bare root plants can go in the ground in the early spring, while they are still dormant and before new growth has developed.
It’s important to prune bare root plants before putting them in the ground. That means taking off about half of the top with a sharp pair of pruners. You should also clip away any dead roots.
The purpose of pruning back the top is to prevent the roots from becoming stressed by trying to provide nutrients for more plant than they can handle.
Most bare-root plants have more growing on top upon purchase or delivery than the roots are capable of feeding. It also encourages bushy growth.
Keep in mind that these plants can have dark or even black roots, but that doesn’t mean they’re dead. A better way to tell is to gently bend the roots. Healthy ones will give rather than snapping.
Then, plant as you would a seedling or transplant, taking care to water lightly as you put soil around the roots to make sure that you’re removing any air pockets.
If you’re an experienced gardener with a thriving orchard, then you may already know all about grafting. Those who are new to the process will probably wonder what the heck all this means.
Though this is an advanced technique that’s largely beyond the scope of this article, I’ll offer a quick overview.
Basically, you’re fusing the roots and a young branch of two different trees as a way to asexually reproduce the parent plant that you take the branch from.
This branch cutting is known as a scion, and in the case of other plant species, buds or young shoots may be taken from the parent plant instead.
Why would you want to do this? Because it enables you to combine the positive traits of two different but related plants.
In this case, Asian scions are usually grafted with American roots in order to yield the superior fruit of grown on the more resilient roots of .
The healthiest trees that exhibit the best qualities of fruit production, disease resistance, and appearance are selected for grafting in the same way that you might save seeds from your most productive tomato plants, or the ones that produced fruit with the best flavor.
Propagating persimmons by grafting should be done in the late winter while trees are dormant, before any new branch or leaf growth emerges. You’ll need healthy rootstock with a diameter of at least 1/3 of an inch, and a scion that is about the same size or slightly smaller.
Using a sharp pair of sanitized pruners, clip a piece of a branch that is about five inches long, with two to four leaf buds. Be sure to take a cutting that is alive and healthy. If it feels dry, try a different branch.
Different types of cuts may be used to attach the scion to the roots. You can use a wedge graft, or a whip and tongue graft.
Whip and tongue grafting involves cutting an N-shaped slice out of the root stem and a corresponding upside-down N on the scion. You then fit them together and bind them with nursery tape.
A wedge graft involves creating a V shape in the rootstock stem and a corresponding wedge in the scion so that the top fits inside the bottom snugly. Again, you bind the graft point with nursery tape.
From that point, you can pot up your grafted cutting and place the plant outdoors to grow. Keep the soil moist if you are having a dry late winter or early spring. If you live in a dry area year-round, mist the graft area once a day.
Check on the graft to make sure the tape is in place, but that the stem isn’t growing so large that the tape is beginning to constrict it.
You want to replace the tape every few weeks and check to make sure that the joint between the two plants is solid.
After the plant forms new leaves and the union has formed a solid growth around it, plant the tree as you would a transplant.
How to Grow
trees can survive in temperatures as low as 10°F, but anything colder can kill them, with just a few exceptions. I’ll mention these in the section on selected cultivars below, so keep reading!
rain gauge to determine how much water your plants are getting so you can supplement accordingly.
prefer full sun, but in hot regions, you may plant them in an area with some afternoon shade.
Plant trees 10 to 20 feet apart from other trees or structures, depending on the expected mature size of your chosen cultivar.
You’ve probably heard it before and I’ll say it again: test your soil before planting.
Persimmons prefer soil with an appropriate balance of nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus. Your soil test will tell you if your soil is lacking or has too much of any of these nutrients.
While Asian persimmons can handle a range of soil types, whether sandy or loamy, and rich in nutrients or not, they can’t tolerate poor drainage.
When planting grafted trees, it’s important to take the origins of the rootstock into consideration. Trees grafted onto rootstock, for example, have a higher tolerance for saturated soil than those with or roots.
Ideally, the soil should have a pH of between 6.5 and 7.5. Prep the soil with some well-rotted compost or sand to aid water retention or improve drainage, depending on the existing texture. The end goal is to have a loamy, healthy soil that looks like what you’d get if you bought an all-purpose soil mixture for planting.
When the plants are young, you don’t need to feed them at all. As they age, you might want to supplement with fertilizer occasionally.
Don’t overfeed your trees with a nitrogen-based fertilizer because this can cause the plant to produce an overabundance of foliage rather than fruiting, or this may result in fruit drop.
Unless a soil test shows a serious deficiency, you should skip fertilizing your trees, or stick with a 10-10-10 (NPK) product applied in the early spring.
Spread about a pound per inch of trunk diameter on the ground under the canopy of the tree.
Lily Miller makes a good all-purpose option, which is available via Amazon.
Growing Asian persimmons in containers isn’t recommended, and they aren’t likely to fruit that way, though you may be able to keep a dwarf specimen happy in a large container in a warm climate, if you wish to grow it as an ornamental specimen.
Pruning and Maintenance
When trees are young, under five years old, you may prune them annually to develop a strong framework to support the heavy fruits.
At the time of planting, aim for a “vase” configuration. This involves selecting three to five main branches toward the outside of the tree and removing all other branches.
- Avoid fertilizing with too much nitrogen. Most plants need a balanced fertilizer once a year or every few years, depending on your soil.
- Provide around an inch of moisture each week if your trees don’t receive that much naturally.
- Mulch to help the soil retain moisture.
Cultivars to Select
There are hundreds of persimmon cultivars out there, and we have an entire guide dedicated to helping you find the right one for your garden (coming soon!). We’ll touch on just a few of the most popular cultivars here.
Many American-bred cultivars of have Asian-inspired or pseudo-Asian names. Heirloom varieties often have Japanese or Chinese names.
If you live in a zone that is on the cooler side of the recommended range for growing Asian persimmons, look for ‘Great Wall,’ ‘Peping,’ and ‘Sheng.’ These cultivars have been bred to be more cold hardy than most, and they can survive temperatures as low as 0°F.
‘Chocolate’ is a pollination-variant astringent type (PVA). It has reddish-orange skin and brown-streaked, jelly-like flesh, which is where it gets its name.
Fruits are ready to harvest in late October to early November, but make sure the fruit has gotten very ripe before digging in.
You can find two-year-old ‘Chocolate’ trees available from Bob Wells Nursery via Amazon.
‘Fuyu’ means winter in Japanese, and this is one of the most well-known cultivars. The pollination-constant, non-astringent fruit (PCNA) looks similar to a tomato in shape.
As is the case for ‘Jiro’ persimmons, there are multiple types of ‘Fuyu’ persimmons, including ‘Hana,’ ‘Giant,’ and ‘Matsumoto Wase,’ all of which were bud sports of the original ‘Fuyu.’
‘Fuyu’ ripens late in the season and is ready to harvest from mid-November through early December.
Trees in three-gallon containers are available from Brighter Blooms via Home Depot if you’d like to add this type to your orchard.
‘Hachiya’ produces fruits with a red skin and jelly-like flesh, shaped like large acorns
They’re ready to harvest from mid-November through mid-December.
This is a pollination-variant astringent type (PCA), and it is popular for drying.
‘Jiro’ could be more accurately referred to as a group of cultivars featuring bud sport (a natural mutation) of the classic ‘Jiro’ tree. Look for ‘Maekawa Jiro’ or ‘Ichikikei Jiro,’ both of which are notable for their medium to large fruit.
This tree produces firm, juicy berries that are medium in size. The fruit is pollination-constant and non-astringent (PCNA).
This is a mid-season variety that’s ready to pick from mid-October through mid-November.
Managing Pests and Disease
Good news! Persimmons don’t suffer frequently from diseases or pest infestations. So why is the list that I’ve provided below so long?
Well, that’s because there are a lot of things out there that can attack Asian persimmons, though they won’t typically attack too often or too severely.
You’re more likely to have to wage war with the many critters who want to eat your fruits, so let’s start with those!
Persimmons are delicious, so it’s no wonder many animals enjoy them as much as we do.
When I say deer love persimmons, I mean it. They love them so much in fact that some deer attractants marketed to hunters are made from the fruit.
If you aren’t careful, you’ll be sharing your harvest with hungry ungulates. The good news is that they can’t reach fruit that is high up, and they mostly dine on the stuff that falls on the ground.
They only go after ripe fruit, so harvesting on time can help limit the amount of damage that they do.
That said, they’ll also browse the leaves and twigs year round.
Not sure how to deal with deer? We have a guide for that.
Rats will devour fruits that fall on the ground, but unlike deer, they’ll also climb trees to get to the sweet stuff.
There are many ways to deal with rodents, from traps (humane and otherwise) and poison to motion-activated noise-makers and sprays.
Note that using poison is illegal in many places because it can impact local wildlife, and humane traps aren’t always a good solution because many places prohibit relocating wildlife. Be sure to check local laws and regulations before you develop a plan to deal with rats in your orchard or garden.
Best to stick to a deterrent and pick up any fallen fruit off the ground so you don’t attract them.
Arbico Organics carries Bonide Rat Magic, which combines several essential oils that repel all kinds of rodents. Simply sprinkle the granules around your trees.
Squirrels also have a sweet tooth and they love persimmons. What makes the little rodents particularly annoying is that they tend to go after the fruits about a week before they’re ripe, preventing you from allowing them to ripen fully on the tree.
If you wait too long to harvest, you might go outside to pluck the ripe fruits and find them covered in little nibble marks… or missing entirely.
Squirrel baffles or collars can help prevent them from scrambling up your trees, but you’ll need to make sure they aren’t able to easily circumvent this by leaping from nearby trees or structures.
Bobbex-R is a reliable alternative that you can spray on and around trees to deter squirrels.
You can pick some up at Arbico Organics. The product that I mentioned above for rats can work to repel squirrels as well.
Yes, there are many insects that may want to snack on your tree. But you aren’t likely to encounter that many of them – unless your tree is stressed. That’s why keeping your tree healthy and happy is important.
Even though insect problems are less common than diseases, which aren’t common either, it’s vital to keep them away because they can spread various diseases that may kill your plants.
Metallic wood borers ( spp.), also known as jewel beetles, burrow under the bark of trees. They’re actually quite lovely looking (if you can forget the damage they cause), with a metallic bronze, black, blue, and green carapace.
Look for frass and gummy excretions on the trunk and underneath the bark. The tunnels can girdle a trunk, especially on a young tree or they may girdle branches.
The presence of this pest goes hand-in-hand with canker issues. They lay their eggs along the scars left behind by the fungus that causes cankers.
The only effective treatment is to cut into the damaged area with a sharp knife and dig out the bugs.
If your tree looks unhealthy or stressed, or if the tree is still young, dig out as many of the pests as you can.
Otherwise, proper care is essential. A healthy tree can often withstand an attack because the pest will move on after they pupate in the spring.
Gill’s mealybug () is one of the most impactful pests of Asian persimmons in the western US, where the majority of the fruits sold commercially are grown.
Comstock mealybugs () are more common in the eastern US than in the western parts of the country, but they may be found in either location as well as in parts of Asia, and in their native habitat in East Asia.
Longtail mealybugs () are another type commonly found across the US.
Mealybugs can be gray, pinkish gray, or reddish-brown. Longtail types have long filaments extending out of their rears, and all varieties may be covered in a white waxy coating.
They excrete honeydew as they suck the juice out of your trees, which attracts ants (who then help protect the mealybugs, and the cycle continues). Honeydew also attracts sooty mold.
In large enough groups, they can stunt growth and reduce fruit yields, but infestations rarely get to this point.
Lacewings, chalcid wasps, and ladybugs are natural predators of mealybugs, so attracting these beneficial insects to your garden can help to ward off an infestation.
You should also wash your equipment between uses to remove any pests that may have hitched a ride.
You can also spray plants with a strong blast of soapy water as soon as you spot these insects On young trees, you may wipe the colonies with rubbing alcohol to kill them. Use a cotton cloth or swabs soaked in rubbing alcohol.
Persimmon psyllas () are a common spring pest. They generally attack persimmons as temperatures warm up and the leaves emerge. The bugs suck the juices out of the foliage, and may cause leaves to look crinkled or curled.
The pests themselves are tiny, about the size of an aphid, around 0.15 of an inch long. They’re dark brown to tan, depending on their age, and have a small set of clear wings.
Avoid pruning when these bugs are active. Pruning spurs new growth, and that’s what these insects like best.
When leaves are emerging and trees are in bloom, you may spray with horticultural oil, such as this one made by Monterey that’s available from Arbico Organics to control them.
Soft scale ( spp.) is an interesting pest, because it looks like a disease but is actually an insect. The little bugs are tan, brown, or gray and may have a fuzzy covering over their soft shells. They cluster together on the branches, trunks, and fruit.
As they eat, they weaken the tree, which stunts growth. Examine trees for clusters of these bugs, which may look like little bumps and lumps on the stems and twigs. You may also see ants on the tree because they’re attracted to the honeydew the bugs leave in their wake.
Treat your trees with a neem oil spray once a week while the pests are present. Bonide makes a good concentrated option, which you can pick up from Arbico Organics.
On top of that, you’ll want to get rid of any ants, which protect and support the scale insects.
Most fruit trees are susceptible to a lot of different diseases, and the persimmon isn’t an exception. But though there are a number of diseases that attack, healthy trees are rarely bothered by them.
As I mentioned, Asian persimmons are often grafted onto American rootstock, and that’s partially because trees are susceptible to root rot while and plants are not.
Before we dive in, it’s essential to keep your trees healthy. If you water at the soil level and make sure your soil is well-draining before planting, this will go a long way towards preventing many diseases.
You should also prune away any dead or diseased branches as soon as you notice them.
In addition, clean up any fallen fruits as soon as possible rather than letting them rot on the ground.
Armillaria Root Rot
Armillaria root rot is caused by the fungus . It starts in the roots of trees and gradually spreads up the trunk from the base, resulting in black shoestring-like strands of fungus along the exterior of the trunk.
Inside, the wood and roots decay – and a stressed tree can die quickly.
The fungus lives in wood debris in the soil and can spread from tree to tree through their root systems.
Sadly, there is no effective treatment, so it’s important to make sure your plants are kept healthy, and provided with adequate water.
Infected trees may fall over, so you’ll need to remove them entirely (roots and all) before they fall and damage your property or hurt someone.
American persimmon rootstock is resistant and rarely contracts this disease.
The fungus causes cankers and discoloration to form on the woody parts of the tree. Some branches may become girdled and the foliage may turn brown, curl inward, and fall.
Avoid damaging trees while mowing or pruning, and make sure your tree is healthy, following the guidelines that I laid out at the beginning of this section.
There is no treatment, so prevention is key. Prune away any damaged branches, and be prepared to remove the tree entirely in the case of a severe infection.
Trees planted in soil that doesn’t drain well are susceptible to rot.
Root rot, caused by spp. water molds, causes tree growth to be stunted. The foliage may turn yellow and branch tips may die back. Meanwhile, below ground, the roots rot away.
If you notice these symptoms above ground, dig down and examine some of the roots. If infected, they will look rotten and soft.
The best treatment is a fungicide that can be applied as a soak and absorbed by the roots, like RootShield Plus.
This biological fungicide, available at Arbico Organics, can be applied as soon as you identify the issue, or as a preventative if you’ve had this issue in the past. Follow the application instructions on the label.
After planting, the trees need to grow for about three years for saplings, or seven years for plants started from seed, before they start fruiting.
You don’t need to let the fruit experience a frost before harvesting, though this is a common misconception. A hard frost can actually ruin any fruits that haven’t matured yet.
Preserving and Storing
Astringent persimmons can’t be stored for very long because they need to already be so ripe once they are deemed edible. Once they reach this stage of softness, eat them within a few days.
this guide on our sister site Foodal for dehydrating fruit if you want to give this option a go.
Dried persimmons in Japan are known as hoshigaki. The term simply means “dried persimmon,” but it doesn’t fully capture the art that goes into making this delicacy.
Essentially, you peel the astringent fruits and hang them to dry in the sun or over a warm stove. Every few days, you massage the fruits, continuing the process for a month or two until they turn brown and form a sugary crust.
Bonus: If, for some reason, you have to harvest astringent persimmons early and you can’t let them ripen up all the way on the tree – perhaps because squirrels are nibbling on them, you won’t be home when they are ripe, or a freeze is in your future – dehydrating or drying them gives them a sweet flavor.
To store the leaves, dry them by plucking them off the tree and putting them on a baking sheet in a cool, sheltered area with good air circulation until they feel crisp.
Recipes and Cooking Ideas
The astringent aspect of this fruit comes from the tannins that they contain. Some people don’t like the astringency and think it tastes unpleasant, and some need the fruit to be fully ripe and practically jelly-like in consistency to think it tastes good.
Quick Reference Growing Guide
|Plant Type:||Perennial fruit tree||Maintenance:||Low|
|Hardiness (USDA Zone):||4-10||Soil Type:||Loose, rich|
|Exposure:||Full sun to part sun||Soil Drainage:||Well-draining|
|Time to Maturity:||Up to 10 years||Companion Planting:||Chives, borage, comfrey, marigolds, mint, strawberries|
|Spacing:||10-20 feet, depending on variety||Avoid Planting With:||Carrots, crucifers, cucurbits, mangoes, onions, peaches|
|Planting Depth:||Same as root ball (transplants), 3 inches (seeds)||Order:||Ericales|
|Height:||Up to 60 feet||Family:||Ebenaceae|
|Spread:||Up to 25 feet||Genus:||Diospyros|
|Pests & Diseases:||Borers, mealybugs, mites, persimmon psylla, scale, thrips; Anthracnose, armillaria root rot, cankers, crown gall, gray mold, root rot||Borers, mealybugs, mites, persimmon psylla, scale, thrips; Anthracnose, armillaria root rot, cankers, crown gall, gray mold, root rot||Borers, mealybugs, mites, persimmon psylla, scale, thrips; Anthracnose, armillaria root rot, cankers, crown gall, gray mold, root rot|
Persimmons Aren’t Persnickety Plants!
Fruit trees tend to get a bad reputation because they sometimes require a lot of maintenance, and they tend to be bothered by a ton of pests and diseases.
growing fruit trees in your garden, check out these guides next:
Kristine Lofgren is a writer, photographer, reader, and gardening lover from outside Portland, Oregon. She was raised in the Utah desert, and made her way to the rainforests of the Pacific Northwest with her husband and two dogs in 2018. Her passion is focused these days on growing ornamental edibles, and foraging for food in the urban and suburban landscape.